We surveyed the four participants of the One World One Trip team for their Top 10 (Plus Two) of Croatia and the results are in:
12. The Moreska (Korcula Sword Dance)
11. Seega (our "adopted" cat in Dubrovnik)
10. Lapad Beach in Dubrovnik
9. Korcula Town
8. Konoba Amoret (Tavern in Dubrovnik)
7. Old Town Dubrovnik and it's alleys
6. The Marko Polo Ferry
5. Dance Beach
4. Seega Beach (named after #11)
3. Lombarda Beach and it's Restaurant
2. Our Korcula Apartment and it's great Adriatic View
AND THE NUMBER ONE FAVORITE OF CROATIA IS:
1. Walking the Walls of Old Town Dubrovnik
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Monday, August 11, 2008
WOW!!!! COOL FERRY
We left Korcula at 1:00 in the afternoon on the ferry "Marko Polo". This was our "ride" and "home" until 7:00 AM the following morning. The first thing we noticed was that the backpackers seemed to know what they were doing. They set up their "spaces" -- on floors -- EVERYPLACE. I thought they would just find a place on deck. No way. Every place was taken...aisles, bar seats, lounge benches, inside and out, every nook and cranny. We even noticed that in the landing between floors, a group of young guys had set up blankets, a stereo system and a bar with plenty of booze. I think they were already semi-blasted by the time we got on board.
We dropped our bags off in our cabin which consisted of four bunks, a toilet, sink and racks for two suitcases (not large enough for four). Quaint post Marshall Tito decorating. By the time we arrived back on deck, all the chairs and tables were taken. Problem: I need (or wanted) to get out of the sun and lisa needed to stay outside to avoid getting seasick. We scoured the ship and finally found a booth in the lounge. Sorry lisa...it's inside. As an aside, lisa is still feeling the movement of the ship a couple of days later. It was there we met Helen and Joanna, a mother-daughter pair from Melbourne, Australia. Helen was very nice, bohemian (in a good way) and was shod in a lovely pair of old yellow Chucks. She is also an amateur photographer having taken over 2000 pics in five weeks. Joanne had met her daughter in Budapest and was spending several weeks with her. She is a doctor in Melbourne managing a seven year old holistic medical practice she started. We spoke with them off and on until they disembarked in Split. Very nice people. In the midst of our conversations a young female duo took out their cello and violin and started playing classical pieces. They played Humoresque, by Dvorcak, which the girls played in Suzuki violin this past year. Another fellow came up and started singing "Ave Maria" in falsetto. The hat was passed...maybe their ferry crossing was paid for!!!
Upon arriving in Split, the largest Croatian coastal city, we headed to deck to view the city with palm trees and mountains in the background. Some people earlier said Split was a better place to visit than Dubrovnik. We'll probably never know. On to dinner at a formal (again with a 1980s communist decor) dining room with waiters in black vests. The food was lousy but not too expensive. Afterwards, we went on deck to watch the sunset and play cards.
I noticed a man who looked Italian, good looking in a "manly man" sort of way. He and his family had been on deck earlier and I had been watching them. At this moment he was holding his young daughter. She started to cry. He glanced left for Mom and not seeing her, reached for another sip of his Karlovacko (beer). As you ladies, would say, "Men are all the same".
We close the night by heading back to our room, trying not to step on anyone. Our sleep was surprisingly okay, sleepful in spurts, broken up by Siena awakening at three o'clock and wanting to read and the creaks and groans of the old ship. Up and at 'em at 6:05 AM for breakfast, and eventually finding our way to the bus headed for Ljubljana. Oh, by the way, that good looking Italian man. I overheard him at breakfast speaking perfect English. Probably American. Go figure.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
THE BEACHED WHALES GUIDE TO THE BEACHES OF KORCULA
Thank you all for waiting patiently on the contest results of my previous blog: WHERE ARE WE?. Here are the results: The answer is: McDONALDS. I actually had a lot of people that responded with the answer McDONALDS, but here are the first three people that responded with the correct answer: Ms. Jenny, Matt, and Calvin.
Dear Beached Whales,
So you are laying on the sand or pebbles of a beach in Korcula drying out. While I can't help you get back in the water, I can help you identify which beach you are on. Here is some advice, I HOPE YOU USE IT!!! Good Luck!!
Korcula is a beach vacation. There is not much to do and most people that are on the island are actually not from Korcula, but tourists from Croatia, or elsewhere. Korcula is an island so there are lots of beaches but we only went to three: Seega, Lumbarda, and Orebic.
Seega Beach- Seega Beach is the beach that was only a five minute walk away from us and had the most sea life. What I mean is that in the shallow part there are lots of urchins, shell creatures, and star fish. It gets deep pretty quick and you kind've get scared since you can't see through the water. Opps!!!! You can actually see through the water so no need to be afraid of what's underneath you. Avocet and I went underwater a lot with our goggles and saw lots of fish, sea fans, sea grass, and once we saw a tire!! Even in the shallow part that we like to swim in, fish will come up to you and stare. Once I even saw an algae eating fish!!!! Lots of people like to jump into the deep water off the big concrete deck they have there. Great Beach!!
Lumbarda Beach- Lumbarda Beach is not like Seega Beach. It is a sand beach and only a small bit of it is rocks. It does have fish, but unlike Seega the fish are rare to see. There are areas with barnacles and coral that are near the rocks. The rocky area has lots of sea urchins and shellfish. The water is still clear but the only thing to see is sand. Getting hungry?? Don't walk all the way back to town, it's a looooooooooooooong walk!! Just go to the beach restaraunt. It serves burgers and will make grilled cheese on request. The most important part: they also serve icecream!!! The water is great and we loved it so much we went back again. Loved it!!
Orebic Beach- (Pronounced orabitch) Orebic Beach is actually not on Korcula but on the mainland. It counts though because we went to it when we were staying in Korcula. It is a sand beach but part of it has rocks. There isn't as much sea life except for urchins in the rocky area. It is a bit like Lumbarda Beach except that it is extremely rare to find fish. There is an area to jump off into the water and lots of people were doing it. After you jump off you have to go around to the other side to get to the stairs and when you did, you had to go over this area that was so deep it was really cold!!!! Unfortunately there is no resturant nearby so we had to take a walk. We ended up eating at this pizzeria that none of us really wanted to eat at. When we went back to the beach, Avocet built a sand house, I built a sand village, and then we both built a sand mermaid. Wonderful water on a hot day. Superb beach!
So now you have listened to me blab about the fish in Seega Beach, the sand and clearness of Lumbarda Beach, and the great jump off at Orebic Beach and you wonder is it really that good?? Well, maybe not. Maybe it's just because there is nothing to do, and it's hot, and the water looks so refreshing and going to the beach is something to do. But I found it all pretty much fun.
I wish you whales luck in getting back into the water but until then, enjoy whichever beach you're on!
Love,
Siena
Dear Beached Whales,
So you are laying on the sand or pebbles of a beach in Korcula drying out. While I can't help you get back in the water, I can help you identify which beach you are on. Here is some advice, I HOPE YOU USE IT!!! Good Luck!!
Korcula is a beach vacation. There is not much to do and most people that are on the island are actually not from Korcula, but tourists from Croatia, or elsewhere. Korcula is an island so there are lots of beaches but we only went to three: Seega, Lumbarda, and Orebic.
Seega Beach- Seega Beach is the beach that was only a five minute walk away from us and had the most sea life. What I mean is that in the shallow part there are lots of urchins, shell creatures, and star fish. It gets deep pretty quick and you kind've get scared since you can't see through the water. Opps!!!! You can actually see through the water so no need to be afraid of what's underneath you. Avocet and I went underwater a lot with our goggles and saw lots of fish, sea fans, sea grass, and once we saw a tire!! Even in the shallow part that we like to swim in, fish will come up to you and stare. Once I even saw an algae eating fish!!!! Lots of people like to jump into the deep water off the big concrete deck they have there. Great Beach!!
Lumbarda Beach- Lumbarda Beach is not like Seega Beach. It is a sand beach and only a small bit of it is rocks. It does have fish, but unlike Seega the fish are rare to see. There are areas with barnacles and coral that are near the rocks. The rocky area has lots of sea urchins and shellfish. The water is still clear but the only thing to see is sand. Getting hungry?? Don't walk all the way back to town, it's a looooooooooooooong walk!! Just go to the beach restaraunt. It serves burgers and will make grilled cheese on request. The most important part: they also serve icecream!!! The water is great and we loved it so much we went back again. Loved it!!
Orebic Beach- (Pronounced orabitch) Orebic Beach is actually not on Korcula but on the mainland. It counts though because we went to it when we were staying in Korcula. It is a sand beach but part of it has rocks. There isn't as much sea life except for urchins in the rocky area. It is a bit like Lumbarda Beach except that it is extremely rare to find fish. There is an area to jump off into the water and lots of people were doing it. After you jump off you have to go around to the other side to get to the stairs and when you did, you had to go over this area that was so deep it was really cold!!!! Unfortunately there is no resturant nearby so we had to take a walk. We ended up eating at this pizzeria that none of us really wanted to eat at. When we went back to the beach, Avocet built a sand house, I built a sand village, and then we both built a sand mermaid. Wonderful water on a hot day. Superb beach!
So now you have listened to me blab about the fish in Seega Beach, the sand and clearness of Lumbarda Beach, and the great jump off at Orebic Beach and you wonder is it really that good?? Well, maybe not. Maybe it's just because there is nothing to do, and it's hot, and the water looks so refreshing and going to the beach is something to do. But I found it all pretty much fun.
I wish you whales luck in getting back into the water but until then, enjoy whichever beach you're on!
Love,
Siena
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
LIFE ON THE ROAD
We are now in our ninth week of travel. Prior to this trip, the longest Marty had been away at one time was three weeks. I had been away for six weeks in Israel and Greece, but that was combined with visiting family. Life on the road can be fun and exciting but also tiring, frustrating and even boring sometimes. There are lots of surprises - both good and bad, and many things to be grateful for.
Having only one 26" rolling duffel bag per person, every item put into those bags was well thought out. I am pleased to say that so far, we feel that everything that we have brought has been needed and that we are not finding ourselves lacking for anything. Bored with what we have maybe, but not lacking.
We left with a "well stocked" first aid kit (within reason) and I feel grateful that to date, we have needed nothing beyond a Motrin or two and Neosporin for a cut Siena obtained while climbing rocks.
Our first two apartments (six weeks total) had internet access and we came to love the convenience that it offered. Now, without it in Korcula, we feel frustrated, irritated and put out. We have an internet cafe 1/2 hour away but it's definitely not the same. It's amazing how addicted to technology we are and how "disconnected" we can feel when we don't have it. If you check our blog regularly, you noticed a week long gap where we didn't post anything. It was not from lack of interest but lack of opportunity. We missed writing and the intellectual stimulation that it can bring.
We all love each other very much but when you talk with the same three people all the time, you start to get tired of them. Our ears are constantly perked for any sound of the English language and we attack the source in hopes of a conversation with someone else. Unfortunately, they haven't necessarily been deprived of conversation for quite as long and may not be as desperate as we are.
Travel days are tough. Even if everything goes smoothly, they are still tough. You are giving up the comfort and familiarity of a place you have come to love and don't necessarily want to leave. You are heading to a place that will hopefully be exciting, but you really don't know for sure what it will be like. And you have to "figure out" everything from the beginning: transportation system, language, where to buy food, your way around town etc. It's interesting but it is work and sometimes complacency seems a better alternative.
To date, we have taken three flights, one long distance train, and a long distance ferry. All of our baggage has arrived at the our destination intact. We count our blessings each time we see those four bags on a baggage claim conveyor belt.
Every place we have been to, we have felt perfectly safe for both our personal beings as well as our possessions. Nothing has ever been taken from us and never once have we felt in danger of any theft. Here on Korcula, we don't even lock our door at night.
A lot of times you have everything you need, just not always at the same time. In Krakow, we had a coffee maker and filters but had run out of decaf coffee (I can only drink decaf) and couldn't find any. Right before leaving Krakow, we found some decaf and bought extra to take with us to Croatia. In Dubrovnik, we had the coffee and coffee maker but no filters. Couldn't find any filters in the store so we bought paper towels to use for filters. By the time we got to Korcula, we had decaf coffee but no coffee maker and no filters , only an espresso pot. When life gives you an espresso pot, you learn to make espresso!
Whether, it's moving from home to home or just on a day trip, there's always the risk of losing things. So far our record isn't too bad. Marty lost his baseball cap which has now been replaced by a panama hat (he looks quite debonair). We lost one Nalgene water bottle in the Krakow airport when we were there to pick up my mother -- we are making do with just three bottles. The worst was also at the Krakow airport at the same time as the water bottle loss. Avocet left her brand new purse (purchased in Zakopane) in the bathroom at the airport and by the time she realized it, it was gone. Financially, it was not a great loss but emotionally it was huge!
You spend a lot of time being versus doing. If you were a Buddhist, you would be right up there with the Enlightened. But if you're an American where what you do and accomplish is how you judge and value yourself, it's a tough transition. At times we feel unproductive and a little at a loss. You start to wonder what your purpose is - of course that is all part of this process that we call travel but it sure feels uncomfortable.
Some days the exotic is no longer appealling and you long for easy and familiar - your own bed and pillow, jam the flavor you want and not just what's available, a stove that cooks with even heat and a refrigerator that actually keeps things cold and not cool. Other days, the view of the Adriatic off your balcony makes all those other "things" insignificant.
Our day to day life is very much about what we create for ourselves. There isn't a whole lot that we have to "react" to - no work, few time constraints, no extra curricular activities, no school or volunteer obligations...the list goes on and on. It's a freedom that we all longed for and yet, ironically, it comes with a lot of responsibility. What strange lives we lead.
Having only one 26" rolling duffel bag per person, every item put into those bags was well thought out. I am pleased to say that so far, we feel that everything that we have brought has been needed and that we are not finding ourselves lacking for anything. Bored with what we have maybe, but not lacking.
We left with a "well stocked" first aid kit (within reason) and I feel grateful that to date, we have needed nothing beyond a Motrin or two and Neosporin for a cut Siena obtained while climbing rocks.
Our first two apartments (six weeks total) had internet access and we came to love the convenience that it offered. Now, without it in Korcula, we feel frustrated, irritated and put out. We have an internet cafe 1/2 hour away but it's definitely not the same. It's amazing how addicted to technology we are and how "disconnected" we can feel when we don't have it. If you check our blog regularly, you noticed a week long gap where we didn't post anything. It was not from lack of interest but lack of opportunity. We missed writing and the intellectual stimulation that it can bring.
We all love each other very much but when you talk with the same three people all the time, you start to get tired of them. Our ears are constantly perked for any sound of the English language and we attack the source in hopes of a conversation with someone else. Unfortunately, they haven't necessarily been deprived of conversation for quite as long and may not be as desperate as we are.
Travel days are tough. Even if everything goes smoothly, they are still tough. You are giving up the comfort and familiarity of a place you have come to love and don't necessarily want to leave. You are heading to a place that will hopefully be exciting, but you really don't know for sure what it will be like. And you have to "figure out" everything from the beginning: transportation system, language, where to buy food, your way around town etc. It's interesting but it is work and sometimes complacency seems a better alternative.
To date, we have taken three flights, one long distance train, and a long distance ferry. All of our baggage has arrived at the our destination intact. We count our blessings each time we see those four bags on a baggage claim conveyor belt.
Every place we have been to, we have felt perfectly safe for both our personal beings as well as our possessions. Nothing has ever been taken from us and never once have we felt in danger of any theft. Here on Korcula, we don't even lock our door at night.
A lot of times you have everything you need, just not always at the same time. In Krakow, we had a coffee maker and filters but had run out of decaf coffee (I can only drink decaf) and couldn't find any. Right before leaving Krakow, we found some decaf and bought extra to take with us to Croatia. In Dubrovnik, we had the coffee and coffee maker but no filters. Couldn't find any filters in the store so we bought paper towels to use for filters. By the time we got to Korcula, we had decaf coffee but no coffee maker and no filters , only an espresso pot. When life gives you an espresso pot, you learn to make espresso!
Whether, it's moving from home to home or just on a day trip, there's always the risk of losing things. So far our record isn't too bad. Marty lost his baseball cap which has now been replaced by a panama hat (he looks quite debonair). We lost one Nalgene water bottle in the Krakow airport when we were there to pick up my mother -- we are making do with just three bottles. The worst was also at the Krakow airport at the same time as the water bottle loss. Avocet left her brand new purse (purchased in Zakopane) in the bathroom at the airport and by the time she realized it, it was gone. Financially, it was not a great loss but emotionally it was huge!
You spend a lot of time being versus doing. If you were a Buddhist, you would be right up there with the Enlightened. But if you're an American where what you do and accomplish is how you judge and value yourself, it's a tough transition. At times we feel unproductive and a little at a loss. You start to wonder what your purpose is - of course that is all part of this process that we call travel but it sure feels uncomfortable.
Some days the exotic is no longer appealling and you long for easy and familiar - your own bed and pillow, jam the flavor you want and not just what's available, a stove that cooks with even heat and a refrigerator that actually keeps things cold and not cool. Other days, the view of the Adriatic off your balcony makes all those other "things" insignificant.
Our day to day life is very much about what we create for ourselves. There isn't a whole lot that we have to "react" to - no work, few time constraints, no extra curricular activities, no school or volunteer obligations...the list goes on and on. It's a freedom that we all longed for and yet, ironically, it comes with a lot of responsibility. What strange lives we lead.
Monday, August 4, 2008
KORCULA - GORGEOUS!!!!
When we left Dubrovnik we thought we had seen the most beautiful place around...we were right...until we got to Korcula. This place has cool, almost cold clear waters surrounding rocky outcroppings where people sun themselves. The vegetation, including palm trees and great flowers, is lush. Our place is up a hill which you access from the road via a series of steps; up, up and more up. The views are of the water, the surrounding valley filled with houses, and the mountains on the mainland across the water. One 'peak' is about 3300 feet. Very majestic.
You wake up in the morning when the sunlight enters the room, about 5:30. For ten minutes bats fly in their standard route right outside our window. Marty closes his eyes because he is afraid one will fly in. Insects here are not allowed in the houses by statute ( a joke ) in Croatia so none of the windows have screens. Also, a breeze is almost always blowing. Today it is predicted to be 102 degrees but the breeze keeps things tolerable. We keep all of our windows open all the time. Itś very comfortable inside and very nice when we eat outside on the veranda. From 15:00 until nearly 20:00 daily, a stong summer wind called a "maestral" blows out of the west. It relieves everyone of the daily heat. To upset our Cincinnati and American friends, we really haven´t needed air conditioning since we left Dallas Ft. Worth almost eight weeks ago. If you want coolness here, just get in the shade. If you want to really cool off, just jump in the water. There are beaches to swim in but more plentiful are places to just swim in the water.
Korcula Town, including itś old walled city, is quaint, filled with old stone buildings. It has much of the allure of Dubrovnik, without the crowds - narrow alley ways, outside konobas (restaurants), and plenty of places to enjoy a cold Karlovacko (one of the many good Croatian beers). We have had several good meals here including dishes such as calamare (squid), octopus bouzzore and Dalamatian style steak. Siena MUST have fried calamare at least once per day. The salami is good from the markets and the bakery bread is OK.
We usually arrive back in our apartman (they leave off the ˝t˝) around 18:00 for showers. When you are hot and tired, a cool shower and that strong maestral breeze are very refreshing. A light dinner, including the local wine, and then we settle down for a quiet night in, usually filled with reading. Our internet connection is in town, almost a thirty minute walk away, so we don´t have the opportunity to fill up our evenings with photo uploads or email responses.
After the sun is completely down, (preceeded by beautiful sunsets over the mountains) we can look out the window and see millions of stars.
Saturday, August 2, 2008
The Beaches Of Dubrovnik
Even though we are now in Korcula (pronounced Korchula), I would like to recognize the 3 wonderful beaches of Dubrovnik that we visited.
Dance Beach
Dance Beach is the first beach that we visited in Dubrovnik. We wanted to dip our toes into the water so we wandered around looking for "the beach". We finally came across Dance Beach, a rock beach and as the water was too cold, we played on the rocks. We came back 2 times after that and played on the rocks more while also exploring the cave that Siena and I had spotted on the first day. After that, Dance Beach became one of our favorite beaches.
Lapad Beach
My Mom first heard about Lapad Beach in her research and so we decided to take a day trip there. We took Bus #6 to the other end of Dubrovnik to get to the beach. Lapad Beach is different than Dance Beach. While Dance Beach is a rocky beach, Lapad Beach is a pebble beach. Dance Beach you had to jump into the water because none of it was shallow. At Lapad Beach, you gradually entered the water like a typical sand beach. When we got there, we immediately set down our stuff and started swimming right away. At the end of the day, we all agreed that this was the best swimming beach so far. Although we wanted to go back, we never did as there were more beaches to explore.
Buza Beach
When we were walking the Walls of the Old City, we saw a little cafe on the rocks and thought it looked nice. When we were done walking the Walls, we explored the Old City to see if we could find the "pretty little cafe on the rocks". When we finally found it, we decided to come back another day. When we came back, we had a drink and then noticed people swimming in the water next to the rocks. Siena, Daddy and I decided to go swimming there and changed into our bathing suits. Daddy canonballed into the water and then, it started to rain. At first we didn't leave as we thought the rain would pass but as it started to thunder and lightning, we decided that we were not going to get any "tipical Dubrovnik weather" and had to pack up and leave. We huddled in the entry way tunnel, waiting for the rain to calm down enough so we could leave. As we were heading to lunch, we all decided that it should be called The Never Swam in Beach.
Dance Beach
Dance Beach is the first beach that we visited in Dubrovnik. We wanted to dip our toes into the water so we wandered around looking for "the beach". We finally came across Dance Beach, a rock beach and as the water was too cold, we played on the rocks. We came back 2 times after that and played on the rocks more while also exploring the cave that Siena and I had spotted on the first day. After that, Dance Beach became one of our favorite beaches.
Lapad Beach
My Mom first heard about Lapad Beach in her research and so we decided to take a day trip there. We took Bus #6 to the other end of Dubrovnik to get to the beach. Lapad Beach is different than Dance Beach. While Dance Beach is a rocky beach, Lapad Beach is a pebble beach. Dance Beach you had to jump into the water because none of it was shallow. At Lapad Beach, you gradually entered the water like a typical sand beach. When we got there, we immediately set down our stuff and started swimming right away. At the end of the day, we all agreed that this was the best swimming beach so far. Although we wanted to go back, we never did as there were more beaches to explore.
Buza Beach
When we were walking the Walls of the Old City, we saw a little cafe on the rocks and thought it looked nice. When we were done walking the Walls, we explored the Old City to see if we could find the "pretty little cafe on the rocks". When we finally found it, we decided to come back another day. When we came back, we had a drink and then noticed people swimming in the water next to the rocks. Siena, Daddy and I decided to go swimming there and changed into our bathing suits. Daddy canonballed into the water and then, it started to rain. At first we didn't leave as we thought the rain would pass but as it started to thunder and lightning, we decided that we were not going to get any "tipical Dubrovnik weather" and had to pack up and leave. We huddled in the entry way tunnel, waiting for the rain to calm down enough so we could leave. As we were heading to lunch, we all decided that it should be called The Never Swam in Beach.
Friday, August 1, 2008
DUBROVNIK - GEM OF THE ADRIATIC
Dubrovnik is at the southernmost tip of Croatia. It has a Mediterranean climate which means that in the summer months it is hot and sunny with only fifteen days of rain over the entire period. We arrived July 23rd to cool and rainy weather. Our last day there was cool and rainy. And in between it was, cool and rainy; except for Saturday when it was "tipical" Dubrovnik weather - hot and sunny - go figure.
The weather, however, did not detract from the beauty of this city. I'm not sure anything can. As you first approach the Old Town, you see the magnificient city walls that are between 500-800 years old. These walls are the best preserved city walls in the world. They stand strong and emulate the resilience of this city and these people. You can climb to the top of the walls and walk around the entire old city. Each view is prettier than the one before.
Old Town sits on a peninsula so you can look to the South, Southeast, and Southwest and see the crystal clear Adriatic Sea. If you look down from the walls, you see Old Town - a labyrinth of alley ways that are lined with restaurants, shops, cafes, and hanging laundry. Many people still live in Old Town so it is not simply a tourist area. All the buildings of Old Town have red tile roofs. In fact, all the buildings in Dubrovnik have red tile roofs. And now that we are on Korcula, all the buildings here have red tile roofs as well. It gives the area a uniformity that is appealing versus monotonous as you might think.
Entering Old Town through the Pile Gate (pronounced pee-lay), you set eyes on the 15th Century Onofrio Fountain given to the people of Dubrovnik in order to "Give to Drink and Decorate the City." You then walk down the Placka or Strandun which is the main street of town. Leaving the main street, you can explore the churches, museums, monasteries and back alleys which is where you'll find the charm.
We ate in several Konobas (casual restaurants) that felt very Old World and had drinks at a cafe that sat on the rocks overlooking the Sea. It doesn't get any better than this.
If I had to say something bad about Dubrovnik it would be the multitude of tourists it gets. In addition to all the "land" tourists, up to five cruise ships dock at their port each day. The crowds swell beyond capacity from 10:00-4:00 and it greatly detracts from the city's beauty. We also haven't found the Croatians to be friendly people. We're wondering if the excessive tourism in the reason why.
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